On the Set

You’re on the set, what’s next?

You will meet with the other collaborators which frequently include a wardrobe stylist, make up artist, hair stylist, and photographer. The person in charge will want to discuss your wardrobe and the different looks for the shoot. Once wardrobe is selected, the hair style and make up will be determined. You should immediately get into your underwear and robe to allow any red lines to dissipate while you are getting your hair and make up done; especially if the shoot involves full/partial/implied nudity, swimwear, or lingerie. If you are providing your own wardrobe, the outfits should be laid out with jewelry and accessories for the wardrobe stylist. The make up artist will also be referencing the colors in your wardrobe to determine specific accent color for eyeshadow, etc. Ideally the hairstylist will complete the hair styling before the make up artist begins. As soon as you are out of prep, you should report to the photographer and creative director (which may be the same person).

When you enter the set the photographer should explain the lighting set up. This is important for you to understand when posing. There are a few terms you need to know:

Key Light: The brightest (not necessarily the biggest) light on the set. This is the light that lights the key subject being photographed, usually the garment or model’s face.
Fill Light: This light fills in the shadows and is responsible for the amount of contrast in the final image.
Hair Light: This is a small focused light that adds highlights to the hair. It is easy to move out of the zone or “sweet spot” where the hair light is lighting the hair properly.
Background Light: There may be one or more lights directed at seamless paper or objects in the room that need to be lit up for the shot. It is important not to move into the light zone for these lights.
Sweet Spot: The area on the set where the lighting is balanced for the model. The model must try to stay inside the sweet spot on the set.

The photographer should provide a basic explanation of the lighting on the set and explain how he/she will direct you, the model. Generally, you should face the key light for more glamorous looks and face away for more dramatic looks. It is always helpful for the model to very slowly turn a full circle in the sweet spot to allow the photographer to see how the model looks in the lighting set up. Except for the most technical sets, the photographer will start out by taking a few light check shots and perhaps adjusting the brightness ratios of the lights.

As the shoot continues, models should begin by working through a repertoire of poses that have been rehearsed. For each pose, hold the pose and work through several facial expression depicting different moods then move on to the next pose. Be ready to hold a pose and allow the photographer to provide direction to get the best pose for the shot. Once the photographer is happy with a pose, work through several facial expressions before moving onward to the next pose. Throughout the shoot it is important to engage the photographer, emote real feelings, and “put yourself out there”. Don’t try to imitate expressions you may have seen in magazines as these forced expressions frequently look fake and shallow. Use your imagination to visualize yourself in situations that cause you to emote powerful feelings consistent with the theme of the shoot.

Your make up artist, hairstylist and wardrobe stylist may be on the set keeping an eye on you. They may interrupt the shooting from time to time to adjust your hair, make up or wardrobe. The photographer should be able to direct you with verbal clues and hand gestures. The more carefully you listen to the photographer and follow direction the better the shoot will go. The photographer should not need to touch if you listen closely and have a stylists on the set. If the photographer does need to position your hand or adjust your attire he/she should ask permission. You are a model, expect to be treated like a professional not like a Barbie doll.

NEXT: After the Shoot